Why the lower button of the jacket always stays open!

....and also on a festive waistcoat! 


A very important key point for the groom and all other wearers of suits is: always leave the lower button on the suit as well as on the waistcoat open. But where does this dress rule come from? We will try to explain the origin. Why the lower button of jacket and waistcoat always stays open has up to date not completely been clarified. Different theories about the origin and the divulgement of this dress rule exist. Two of these different theories we would like to introduce to you. These rules are important - also for the groom, because on the nicest day of life everything should work out fine.  

1. The royal theory 

A theory about letting open the lower button of the jacket refers to HRH King Edward VII. Legend has it that for comfort reasons he left the lower button open, because for a corpulent person it was (and is) much more comfortable to leave these lower buttons of jacket and waistcoat open. As a gesture of respect all men in the empire did it like him and within short this way of comfort became an unwritten clothing rule.  

2. The riders theory

Not as royal, but as traceable is the riders theory about the lower button on the jacket or waistcoat. At the time when single breasted suits have been invented the most common means of transport were horses. In order to comfortably sit in the saddle the gentlemen had to leave open the lower button of jacket and waistcoat. Up to date this is the common way to wear the jacket and waistcoat.  

Key points

  • On a single breasted jacket with one button the jacket may be completely be closed or may be worn open.
  • On a single breasted jacket with two buttons only the upper button is to be closed, the lower one always stays open.
  • On a single breasted jacket with three buttons the middle one is to be closed, the lower one always stays open. The upper button may be worn open or closed, this is up to the wearer.
  • You have decided for a double breasted suit? The lower button also stays open, all others are closed.
  • On a festive waistcoats all buttons except for the lower one are to be closed.
  • Exception: jackets with stand-up collar or different variations of royal jackets can vary due to the number of buttons. If you are not sure, just contact us. HERE
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